Austrian Newcomer Wein Goutte
We explore two 2019 vintages from newcomer Wein Goutte, brainchild of Austria-based winemakers Emily and Christoph.
Though many of the wines we get into the shop are from producers we’ve featured for quite some time, a good deal of our offerings also come from fresh faces, whether it’s because they’ve just gotten clearance to distribute their bottles stateside or they are releasing new vintages for the very first time. Whenever we get these new winemakers in, it’s cause for celebration. We love opening up a bottle and pouring a glass, as we imagine what the wine must smell and taste like. This mystery is what keeps us motivated to explore changes in the industry.
Wein Goutte is one such newcomer. The brainchild of Emily Campeau, who is also the remote wine director of Restaurant Candide in Montreal, and Christoph Müller, who works at Weninger Weingut team, this couple has taken Austrian grapes and brought their latest bottles to life. They are already distinctive with their colorful, pop art inspired labels and in depth descriptions of their farming and bottling practices. They are interesting beacause they have declassified their wines, meaning they are unable to discuss varieties or the vineyards specifically on their website. But a few clever descriptions leave little to the imagination.
One of our favorite winter treats is a dark rosé, and Panic On The Boat, a blend of Pinot Noir and Zweigelt, delivers just what we need for Winter 2021. As Emily explains, the name for the wine came from the kitchen phrase, “Panic on the boat!” meaning that someone was in need of help. Thankfully making this wine didn’t involve any panic, even though the Pinot Noir and Zweigelt were originally intended for separate bottles but ended up tasting better together. 20mg of sulfur was used at bottling for stability.
In the glass, it could easily be mistaken for a light red with its deeper, almost purple hue. The nose is an intoxicating blend of Middle Eastern spices that reminds us of walking into Sahadi’s, in the best possible way. On the palette, this is categorically a rosé because it is so fruit forward, with a bouquet of red fruits featuring cherry and strawberry. We also love the acidic drive that helps push things forward. Though it lacks much in the way of tannic structure, it is still contemplative, with a good bit of body and weight to help mellow things out.
Given its approachability and versatility, this is a great choice for anything from pizza to roast chicken.
Though Blaufränkisch has been planted in many Central European countries, its first documented roots lead us directly to Austria, where it continues to be a major player on the wine scene today. Emily and Christoph’s version comes from relatively young vines, planted in 2004, and the name was inspired by a karate chopping bread technique from a YouTube video. While this has nothing to do with the wine itself, it showcases their commitment to leading their winemaking process with whimsy and experimentation.
This Blaufränkisch is particularly aromatic with vivid notes of violet and rose on the nose. An inky purple in the color, it showcases crunchy blackcurrant and plum, hints of peppery spice, and a silky body with just a touch of tannins. Though this drinks quite light now, it has definite aging potential. But if you’re like us and can’t seem to wait for too long, pair it with spaetzle, sausages, or another nice cut of meat and a side of roasted potatoes. Sometimes the simplest pairings are the best.
In case Austria isn’t your vibe, we also tasted a light skin contact Chardonnay from California producer Old World Winery called L’Aureate. It’s ripe but unoaked, with juicy pineapple notes, soft herbs, mouthwatering minerality that carries into a long finish. It also features intoxicating aromas of tropical fruit and lemon balm. Pair with any meaty fish for the perfect winter pick-me-up.
Whatever you plan on drinking in the next week, happy sipping!